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Japan’s indigenous people, the Ainu, inhabited Hokkaido, the Kurile Islands, southern Sakhalin Island, and a portion of northern Honshu. They had a unique culture and language, completely separate from that of the Japanese. By the middle of the 19th century, the destruction of this ancient culture was set in motion by Japan’s national government.
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A confident young Japanese woman in modern dress and hairdo during the early Showa Period (1926-1989). Japanese women first started to experiment with Western fashion during the Meiji Period (1868-1912). By the 1920s, the trendy moga (modern girl) sporting the latest Western fashion and short fashionable hairstyles, had made her entry. (Inset shows current Japanese hairstyle).
An increasing number of urban young Japanese embraced Western culture wholeheartedly during this period. They dressed in Western styles aspiring to look like Western flappers and listened to Western music, especially jazz. Moga read newly launched magazines which featured articles and fashion tips on the moga lifestyle. To these young people, Japanese culture seemed outdated and from the past.

Modern Japanese women on advertising posters for the Shukan Asahi (Weekly Asahi), a weekly magazine that was established in 1922 (Taisho 11) and is published to this day. Left: 1922 (Taisho 11). Right: 1933 (Showa 8).
The term moga, and the male counterpart mobo (modern boy) were loaded with political tension. The moga and mobo were often criticized for the foreign influences they absorbed and displayed.
Social conservatives felt especially threatened by the moga, whose popular image exuded sexual power, westernization and independence.
“In many ways,” writes Kendall H. Brown, a professor of art history at California State University at Long Beach, “women were at the very core of the social and cultural tension in interwar Japan.”
Both the new roles of women and modernization itself raised difficult questions.
How could one be both Japanese and modern, if modernity is defined as Western? Were modernity and Japaneseness antithetical? Or could individuals and society synthesize some new middle ground? If so, how?1
Questions that may still confound some Japanese today.
The onset of the Showa Period, with its ultranationalist ideology, spelled the end of moga and mobo, but not the end of Western fashion as can be seen in this image. And certainly not the end of Western influence. It returned with a vengeance after the end of WWII.
In the mid-1990s however, young Japanese in Tokyo’s Harajuku district started to experiment with fashion in a typical Japanese way. Many of them reached back to their Japanese roots to come up with fashion ideas.

Two young Japanese women in ultra-modern street fashion inspired by traditional Japanese themes. Photos from JapaneseStreets.com. ©2006 Kjeld Duits.
1 Brown, Kendall H. (2004). The ‘Modern’ Japanese Woman. The Chronicle Review, Volume 50, Issue 37: B19
Japanese Furniture
Asian-inspired furniture and kitchen cabinets from greentea design
A confident young Japanese woman in modern dress and hairdo during the early Showa Period (1926-1989). Japanese women first started to experiment with Western fashion during the Meiji Period (1868-1912). By the 1920s, the trendy moga (modern girl) sporting the latest Western fashion and short fashionable hairstyles, had made her entry. (Inset shows current Japanese hairstyle).

Thanks, mcvmcv.
I am not sure if it was shocking. It was common in Meiji Japan for women to smoke pipes, surprising as that may sound. By the Taisho Period that custom was seen as outdated. I haven’t been able to find sources yet about how people thought about women smoking cigarettes and I haven’t interviewed anybody yet about this either. I can imagine it differed according to social class. Images of smoking women, both photographs and other art, are very common in the Taisho period. I also know of several writers of this period who described smoking women. If I am not mistaken, the main persona in Junichiro Tanizaki's novel Naomi also smoked.
# Kjeld Duits · 2008-04-10
You’re welcome. I love Junichiro Tanizaki. My favorite book is the “The Makioka Sisters.” It describes a lot of places in my neighborhood, so that makes it extra interesting.
# Kjeld Duits · 2008-04-16
Here in Miyako where a lot of the posters in restaurants haven’t been updated, some of these old pictures still exist. Not quite that old, but still going pretty far back.
# Japanese words · 2009-08-02
@Japanese words: I have to come and visit!
# Kjeld Duits · 2009-08-07
@Japanese words: I have to come and visit!
Here in Miyako where a lot of the posters in restaurants haven’t been updated, some …
You’re welcome. I love Junichiro Tanizaki. My favorite book is the “The Makioka Sisters.” It …
thanks for your response – just got around to checking this now. that’s interesting you …
Thanks, mcvmcv. I am not sure if it was shocking. It was common in Meiji Japan …